It is one thing to travel back to the tables and kitchens of mid-1800s France, but imagine your tour guide is the swashbuckling author of The Three Musketeers and The Count of Monte Cristo.
That’s exactly the trip I took when I opened Dumas on Food by Alan and Jane Davidson which features selections from and translations of Alexandre Dumas’ Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine.
(Before we get too involved in food, let me note that in French literature there are two writers by the name of Alexandre Dumas. The first is referred to as Alexandre Dumas, père—the father—which distinguishes him from his son, Alexandre Dumas, fils. Now that we’ve cleared that up, père Dumas (1802-1870) wrote hundreds of books during his lifetime. Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine was published after his death in 1873. Fils Dumas (1824-1895) was a novelist and playwright. His romantic novel La Dame aux camélias was adapted into Giuseppe Verdi’s opera La Traviata.)
PJM Blooming in December
But it is the père that I am writing about. Dumas on Food follows the dictionary style, beginning with Absinthe and ending with Zeste, with an exhausting examination of fish and fowl, and all things that crept, crawled, and slithered into the Dumas kitchen or tables of his travels. We’re talking heavy on hermit crabs, dog, kangaroo, and sea anemones, as well as bacon, barbel, barracuda, bear, beef, blackbird, boar, bonito, bream, brill, and burbot—and those are just the Bs. By the time I reached the Ps, Dumas was recalling a trip of Saint Tropez where, in the middle of a public square, tables were laden with a feast. The feature of the meal was roasted Peacock/Paon with its raised sapphire neck in the front and its tail feathers spread in a fan, bringing up the rear, roast bird in the middle. My stomach turned a couple of times at the image and I was ready to say my vegetarian vows.
I don’t mean to infer that Dumas forgot vegetables in his dictionary. It is just that they are simply a side dish to what could be shot in the woods or plucked from river or sea. One of the most beneficial things for me was the French food coupled with the English translation, reinforcing my elementary French lessons: Asparagus/Asperge, Beetroot/Betterave, Eggplant/Aubergine, Garlic/Ail au singulier, Aulx au pluriel, and Onion/Oignon. Of course Dumas wrote Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine in French and Dumas on Food contains English translations of selections from the original.
Dumas on Food is peppered with food story gems and delightful descriptions too.
He writes that Fennel/Fenouil is an aromatic plant popular in southern Italy where it is eaten like celery. “It is not unusual to see working people with a bunch of fennel under the arm and making their lunch or dinner of this, accompanied by bread.”
Dumas explains that the lowly Peanut/Arachide is also called pistache de terre (the pistachio of the earth) and he refers to the Pimento/Piment, as the “coral of the gardens” due to the red color and variety of shapes. Within the pages, Dumas describes of the best way to skin an eel, how to tell if an egg is fresh, and, if you dare, how to use the juice of 12 ducks to flavor 15 poached eggs.
Cardinal with Amaryllis
One of my favorite passages was on Butter/Beurre:
“In a few counties where I have travelled, I have always had freshly made butter, made on the day itself. Here, for the benefit of travelers, is my recipe; it is very simple, and at the same time foolproof.
“Whenever I could find cow’s milk or camel’s milk, mare’s milk, goat’s milk, and particularly goat’s milk, I got some. I filled a bottle three quarters full, I stopped it up and I hung it around the neck of my horse. I left the rest up to the horse. In the evening, when I arrived, I broke the neck of the bottle and found, within, a piece of butter the size of a fist, which had virtually made itself. In Africa, in the Caucasus, in Sicily, in Spain, this method always worked for me.”
His story under the heading Cavaillon Melon/Cavaillon is priceless. In 1864 the Municipal Council of Cavaillon sent a letter to Dumas saying they were establishing a town library and wanted to get the best books they could to fill the shelves. Would he be kind enough to send two or three of his best novels?
“Now, I have a daughter and a son, whom I think I love equally; and I am the author of five or six hundred volumes and believe myself to be just about equally fond of them all. So I replied to the town of Cavaillon that it was not for an author to judge the merits of his books, that I thought all of my books good, but that I found Cavaillon melons excellent; and that I consequently proposed to send to the town of Cavaillon a complete set of my works, that is to say four or five hundred volumes, if the municipal council would be willing to vote me a life annuity of twelve green melons.”
The municipal council unanimously endorsed his request. Sources say Dumas sent 194 of his books to the Cavaillon library, and the town of Cavaillon sent Dumas a dozen melons each year, without fail. “I therefore have only one desire to express, which is that the people of Cavaillon will find my books as charming as I find their melons.” What a guy! Laurie Lynch
Written on Slate: “Everyone recognizes the smell of garlic, except the person who has eaten it and who has no idea why everyone turns away when he approaches.” Alexandre Dumas
3 Musketeers: It is not often that a novel is so popular that it takes on a new life as a candy bar. But that is exactly what happened in 1932 when M&M/Mars created 3 Musketeers. It was originally three mini-bars of chocolate, vanilla and strawberry nougat—sort of a candy rendition of Neapolitan ice cream. By 1945, chocolate won out and became the full bar that we know today.
A Holiday Gift: In the past few weeks, three people (including my daughter Marina) have requested my Cranberry Upside-Down Cake recipe. I checked my blog, and it turns out I’ve never shared it with all of you—a true blunder. But, I can be forgiven—Cranberry is omitted from Dumas on Food as well.
In Kutztown, I often made this cake for Christmas breakfast. That expanded to Thanksgiving Day for snacking, Christmas dessert, and, since cranberries are so easy to freeze, to a lovely Valentine’s Day treat. ‘Tis the season for cranberries:
Cranberry Upside-Down Cake
1 stick butter, room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 bag fresh cranberries, rinsed and dried
Rind of 1 orange
1 large egg
1 tsp. vanilla
1¼ cup flour
1½ tsp. baking powder
½ cup milk
1/3 cup red currant jelly, orange marmalade or your choice
Butter a 9-inch round pie dish with 2 tablespoons butter. Sprinkle ½ cup sugar evenly over the bottom of pan. Arrange cranberries in pan. Put orange rind in food processor with metal blade. Add remaining sugar and chop fine. Cream together remaining butter and sugar mixture. Add egg and vanilla. Sift together flour and baking powder. Stir into butter mixture, ½ cup at a time, alternating with milk. Stir until just combined. Pour batter over cranberries and bake on baking sheet at 350° for 1 hour. Cool on rack for 20 minutes. Melt jelly or marmalade over low heat. When cake is cooled, run knife around edge and invert on plate. Brush top and sides with melted jelly.
P.S. I often omit the jelly glaze part and it turns out fine.
Written on Slate: “I made cranberry sauce, and when it was done put it into a dark blue bowl for the beautiful contrast. I was thinking, doing this, about the old ways of gratitude: Indians thanking the deer they’d slain, grace before supper, kneeling before bed. I was thinking that gratitude is too much absent from our lives now, and we need it back, even if it only takes the form of acknowledging the blue of a bowl against the red of cranberries.” Elizabeth Berg