My buddy Wally and I were having an email conversation about grief (his mom died at 99; mine at 91) and he basically said, grieve all you want but you must take care of yourself.
“You sound like my daughter, always preaching self-care.”
“And your daughter is right,” he replied. “Come take a swim.”
I had been saying that October was my favorite month for swimming at the Isle of Palms, S.C.—water warm and crowds gone.
Now most mornings in State College I just head down the road three miles to the YMCA for an easy lap swim. Wally’s casual invitation switched me into overdrive. Why not take a Lowcountry vacation, stroll on the beach, and wander down the Charleston Battery? Isn’t that self-care? OK, 739 miles of driving for a dip in the water is a bit much, but …
Well, the first thing I did was share my impulsive thought with my kids so I wouldn’t chicken out. They were encouraging.
So … I packed my bathing suit, several face masks, a couple towels, a bag of dog food, a massive amount of fruit and orzo salad, and off we went.
I guess this is a good time to explain that I am no stranger to the South Carolina Lowcountry. In the early 1970s I took summer classes at The College of Charleston (where I met Wally). I graduated from Penn State after winter term, so that March I loaded up my Datsun station wagon and headed south.
I had a job interview at The News and Courier. The newspaper didn’t have an immediate opening but the managing editor pulled a few strings and got me a waitressing job to tide me over until I could join the Trends (debutantes, brides, and features) Department later that summer. Long story short, I stayed until 1980 when I sold my house in Mount Pleasant, across the harbor from Charleston, and returned to Pennsylvania.
Forty years later I’m standing on the doorstep of the Mount Pleasant home where Wally and his wife Michele live. I’m wearing a mask. He isn’t. We agree to social distance without masks. They invited me (and Sandy 4.0) for shrimp and grits (a traditional coastal dish). Michele loves dogs and they have a fenced-in yard that leads to their dock and motorboat.
Michele spent an awfully long time cooking the grits, so Wally and I had time to catch up. He has two sons, 28 and 30; my son is 28 and daughter 30. His mother died a year and a half ago; mine, four months ago. As an executor, he had a house to sell and mountains of paperwork; I’m experiencing the same. His retirement date may shift a bit because of COVID-19 but he is close, maybe 6 months or so. I’m looking at 12/21—my retirement palindrome.
Wally was born and raised in Mount Pleasant—and never left. He is the assistant director of fishery management for S.C. Department of Natural Resources. But, as an authority on billfish (BIG predatory fish with a long dagger on their upper snouts, such as marlins and sailfish), he has travelled the world—China, Africa, Europe, Australia. When he was a youngster, he visited the Lehigh Valley and remembers going to Dorney Park. I told him when I worked as the Penn State Master Gardener Coordinator for Lehigh and Northampton counties I had a window that looked out at the Dorney Park roller coaster.
Dinner is an escape to the past. I can’t remember the last time I had grits. And dessert: Flourless chocolate cake with hand-whipped cream. Mmmm.
The following morning Sandy and I return for a two-and-a-half-hour motorboat tour with Wally at the helm.
He takes the twisty tidal waterways of Hobcaw Creek past Remleys Point, around Daniel Island, and who knows where else, and probably not in that order. We venture out of the estuary to the “new” bridge (completed in 2005) over the Cooper River and see the Charleston Harbor at a distance. The morning gusts are too rough to motor any closer.
Wally gives a running commentary in his 18.6 Sea Hunt (loved that show starring Lloyd Bridges) Triton as I hold Sandy, wrapped in a beach towel, shivering with temporary fright on my lap. When we go against the strong current, saltwater spray spritzes our cheeks.
Captain Wally points out dolphins dancing in front of us, pelicans diving for breakfast, and bald-headed wood storks and white egrets roosting in a tree, waiting to wade out for a low tide buffet of minnows, mullet, crabs, frogs, and aquatic insects.
Pal Wally updates me on our old haunts and friends. The Windjammer still exists (but I wouldn’t recognize it); Big John’s is gone. Sammy coaches high school basketball; Ken sells insurance, and Tate is an artist who makes much of his living selling reproductions of his Charleston scenes made into jigsaw puzzles.
Biologist Wally shows me a pole in the waterway where a tracking device records the tagged fish that swim by, charting their migration. One of the big challenges of COVID shut-downs has been getting the manpower to replace the batteries on these devices so SCDNR doesn’t lose a year’s worth of data.
Homegrown Wally points out open lands that became golf courses. Million-dollar mansions. Infinity swimming pools. Boats tied up to elaborate docks that together cost more than many homes. He shows me an all-glass house on the marsh where he partied in high school.
And he talks about changes to the Lowcountry environment. He and Michele have spotted manatees in the Cooper River. Forty years ago, manatees never left Florida. They see the rising tides in their backyard and hear high water warnings issued for Charleston and other coastal areas. The water oaks skirting their home bear scars from Hurricane Hugo when it battered the coast in 1989.
It may have been a long drive for a dip in the Atlantic and laps in the hotel swimming pool lined by palmetto trees, but returning to South Carolina was so much more. Laurie Lynch
Mast Year: When we walked into Michele and Wally’s backyard after supper, I thought I heard fireworks in the far distance. Michele said the sound was from the live oak acorns dropping onto their shed’s tin roof. A mast year is one of those mysteries of the natural world when fruit, seed and nut production is especially high. We’re also having a mast year with oak trees in Central Pennsylvania. These “bumper crops” of hard mast occur sporadically with oak, hickory, beech and hazelnut trees, as well as soft mast for blackberries, blueberries and apples.
The Stats: When I left the Village of Mount Pleasant in 1980, the population was 14,464. Construction of the eight-lane Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge linking Mount Pleasant to Charleston was completed 15 years ago, replacing the two aging bridges I remember so well. Today, the population of Mount Pleasant has more than sextupled, topping 91,000. No wonder it took me two days to find my old house on McCants Drive.
Small World: Dave, one of the front desk clerks at the hotel where Sandy and I stayed, is a 1979 PSU graduate.
Firsts for Sandy 4.0: Automatic sliding glass doors at the hotel, elevator at the hotel, sleeping in a hotel, organic doggie biscuits for poolside dining, and romping on the sandy beach and surf of the Isle of Palms.
Sweetgrass Serenade: Sweetgrass, used to make baskets in the Lowcountry, was “starting to purple” while I was there. Earlier this year I wrote a blog on the book Braiding Sweetgrass, so the landscape sightings were even more meaningful and beautiful.